I built this amp as a modding platform and it is VERY mod friendly. That's what I did, but the difference was not that big. Can easily be converted to Marshall spec if preferred by consulting both schematics. It takes away a slight bit of ice-picky treble, and adds slightly more bass when all dials are at 12 o' clock. The only difference from an actual JCM800, apart from the power stage which is changed to 25W, is the tone stack that is wired Fender style and not Marshall style, though the values of components are the same, and you can hardly hear the difference between the two wirings. I saw a link on this site for them as well, but I would ask for availability first, as they said it is very expensive to express-ship. No problem if you got the right tools, but if you don't, I would recommend a third party chassis, like the ones you can order off EBAY from the seller mentioned in the description. The square holes for the transformer, IEC connector, on/off switch and pentode/triode switch are the biggest work. I used an aluminum case (160mm(D) x85mm(H) x 350mm(W)) and drilled and hacked the right holes into it. It can cost expensive, especially when shipping internationally, or when building a chassis can be difficult to do right and avoid mistakes and potholes. My Marshall DSL20 is picking up dust now. Surprisingly good sounding amp when built. It’s got a great clean tone, and gets very loud when you crank it up! I think this kit is a very good value for the money, and a fun build. I contacted KLD about that, and they were very quick to get back to me about this issue - support was excellent!! Only one minor issue with some power tube resonance in the tri-ode mode when I first turned it on, but that went away when I set the bias pot on the component PCB.
Needed the recommended steel chassis from the guys on eBay (in the US), and that came pretty quick, but I had to drill some holes to get it to work (component board PCB holes did not line up, no mount spot for output transformer, and no hole for effects-loop jack). It was my first tube amp project, and it came out great! Very nice clean tone, and tons of gain! For such a cheap kit, it has a lot of features, like a low-power ‘tri-ode’ mode, treble-mid-bass tone stack, separate gain, volume, and ‘presence’ controls, and a built in effects loop - which is done in a single jack. You could probably built it in a few hours if you dedicated the time, but I built it over a few days to prolong the experience. Documentation is mostly very good, and I spent a few weeks studying the schematic and layout diagrams before I fired up my iron! There is a procedure on the web-site that I found after I was ready for testing (oops), but that is marginally helpful. They put pretty big blobs of solder on the connection points, so you just need to get those flowing, and shove in your wires - not too bad! Most connection points are to the component PCB, and just a few shielded-wire signal connections to the front-panel control board. You need to supply hook-up wire, the chassis, the tubes (3x AX7 and 2x 6L6, or similar), and a cab! Some electronics know-how is required, and don’t go near those caps when it’s on, close to 400VDC! You need to mechanically assemble the components to the chassis (not supplied), and then re-solder the connections to/from the PCBs. The ‘kit’ is two PCBs (one is the component board, and the other is front-panel controls), two decent & beefy transformers (line input power, and high-power audio output), and some miscellaneous HW (like some wires, some resistors, knobs, switches, tube mounts, and 1/4” jacks). If you want to get a nice tidy install, try tidying your cables with these different colour cable ties for £1.50 !!!Īdd a bit of colour with this Neon cable for £0.This is a very fun some-what ‘pre-built’ tube amplifier kit. Heavy duty in-line fuse holder for £2.99, can't complain !!! Heavy gauge twin amp cable, thats right, TWIN cable, red and black, it comes in 5m lengths which is a steal at £3.89 !!! Premium Double Sheilded RCA leads, 5m for £6.99 !!! I have an ALPINE head unit with one SUB pre-out and two standard pre-outs, I will only use the SUB and one other, I also need it to run a 1600w amp, so some nice heavy gauge cable was needed !!! I went on eaby the other day to buy an amp wiring kit for my Rover, there are many to choose from, the cheap ones are, well, cheap, they only run small installs, the more powerfull ones are a bit on the pricey side for my taste, so I thought about buying the components I need seperatly, this way, I could save a few quid and get exactly what I want !!!
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